The Roof of the World has been isolated for most of its history. Into the twentieth century, this isolation was frequently self-imposed and self-enforced. Lhasa was a Forbidden City. Interest in Tibet has, ironically, been increased by the PRC assumption of the territory. First, the Dali Lama in his exile has brought attention to a country he was, in part, responsible for isolating. And secondly, after initially destroying the culture and monuments of Tibet, the PRC has realized that tourism is, essentially, free money and so have been rebuilding the monasteries they destroyed and allowing festivals they once banned. How long open access to Tibet will last is anyone’s guess. How long Tibet—more and more populated by Han Chinese rather than the now impoverished native peoples—will be of interest in also an open question. Now is the time to take advantage of the open door and the confluence of events. The effect of the high-speed train from Beijing and the coming Olympics are as impossible to accurately predict as they are impossibly obvious.
This trip will take in not only the historical sites of Lhasa and Shigatse and many of the natural marvels of the Himalayas, but also two major festivals, one secular and one religious—the Tibetan Horse Festival and the Xuedun Shining Buddha Festival.
The Tibetan Horse Race Festival is one of the most important folk festivals in Tibet. People who gather for the annual horse race festival end up creating a huge a tent city. Dressing themselves and their finest horses in traditional garb, thousands of herdsmen participate in the thrilling horse races, archery contests and other feats of skill. Typically there are other folk-life activities, too, such dancing and singing competitions.
The Xuedun Shining Buddha ceremony is one of the liveliest and most important holidays in Tibet. Prior to the 17th century, lamas were forbidden to leave their monastery for a period of three months. At the beginning of July, when the lamas were free to leave the monastery, alms of yogurt (Sho in Tibetan) were given out by local residents to welcome their return. The lamas are no longer locked away today, and the festival, which has since been renamed the Shining Buddha Festival. The tradition of this festival is maintained in the customary shining Buddha's portrait during the celebration.
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